The world of silk offers approximately 35 different variations, though fewer are typically selected for premium homeware and apparel. At Rise & Fall, we carefully curate our silk collection around 3 core considerations:
- The origins of the silk.
- The weaving techniques used.
- The finishes applied.
Silk Types by Origin
1. Mulberry Silk
Mulberry silk is the most refined and widely used silk, produced from silkworms that feed exclusively on mulberry leaves. It is celebrated for its exceptional softness, smooth texture, natural lustre and uniform fibre quality that maintains beauty and structure over time.
While all genuine silk is technically mulberry silk but quality varies significantly depending on production methods. It's consistent fibre quality is ideal for clothes and embodies our philosophy of purposeful luxury.
2. Tussah Silk
Tussah silk is a wild silk variety harvested from the filament left by a silkworm after feeding on oak and other forest trees. It has a natural golden hue.
While it's more textured and less durable than mulberry silk it's still considered to be a cost-effective alternative. Prized for its breathability and temperature control qualitities this silk is often used in bedding products such as duvet covers and pillowcases. It’s also a popular ingredient in luxury soaps with its naturally occurring amino acids which help to soften and condition the skin.
3. Eri Silk
Eri silk, often referred to as “peace silk,” is a wild silk produced from silkworms that feed on castor leaves and is harvested without killing the silkworm. This makes it an ethically distinctive silk variety although the lengthier production process lends itself to higher price points.
It is characterised by a soft, matte finish yet its natural weightiness and slightly textured, wool-like handfeel provides excellent thermal regulation for year-round comfort.
With natural cream to rich reddish-brown colour variations eri silk is typically used to create cosy yet elegant garments with a more rustic, low-lustre aesthetic that transition seamlessly between seasons.
4. Muga Silk
A rare silk produced exclusively in Assam, India. It is considered to be amongst the world's most refined natural fibres. The caterpillars needed to make muga silk are also in danger of extinction, further driving up its price point and exclusivity.
The natural sheen glows from within, developing into a deeper golden lustre over time. With reverred craftmanship, muga silk has exceptional longevity and has been traditionally used for heirloom garments and ceremonial pieces that are treasured for generations to come.
Popular Silk Weaves and Finishes
1. Organza Silk
This silk is a sheer, plain-weave with a crisp structure and lightweight feel.
Traditionally used for wedding veils and underskirts, this crisp fabric adds ethereal elegance to any design. Its ability to hold shape while maintaining an airy lightness makes it perfect for creating volume and drama too. Despite its delicate, almost translucent appearance, quality organza possesses remarkable durability, ensuring pieces maintain their beauty.
At Rise & Fall, organza silk is used to create elegant blouses, skirts and dresses that balance structure with lightness.
2. Satin Silk
The epitome of elegance, silk is woven using a satin weave. This creates its signature high-shine, glossy appareance, fluid drape and luxuriously soft feel. Its ability to reflect light embodies refined luxury, making it a natural choice for evening wear and wedding dresses.
3. Crêpe Silk
Crêpe silk is characterised by its subtly textured surface created through specialised twisting or weaving techniques. It features an understated matte finish that resembles fine crêpe paper. Along with its gentle drape this silk is typically used for elevated daywear and tailored silhouettes that transition effortlessly from day to evening.
4. Jacquard & Brocade Silk
Jacquard silk is a patterned silk fabric woven on a jacquard loom, with intricate designs built directly into the fabric. It is distinguished by its raised, textural richness and enhanced durability which lends itself to table linens, upholstery and decorative home pieces.
Meanwhile, brocade silk is a richly decorative (often embossed) fabric woven on a jacquard loom. Using supplementary (often metalic) threads inticate patterns are stitched into the fabric for added depth and opulence.
Brocade silk is typically reserved for statement pieces, ceremonial garments and luxurious interior textiles.
5. Silk Dupion
Made in India, silk dupion is a crisp silk fabric created by reeling together two silkworm filaments. This results in a textured, irregular finish with visible slubs.
While silk dupion is used for garments that require shape and structure (e.g. bridal gowns and formal wear) we see its value in tailored everyday wear which you can see in our grandad collar blouse.
As a durable and naturally renewable and biodegradable fibre it's also a low waste choice.
6. Taffeta Silk
Taffeta silk is a tightly woven silk fabric with a smooth surface and a crisp, structured handfeel. It produces a subtle rustling sound when worn and has a lower sheen than satin while holding its shape well.
Taffeta silk is commonly used in eveningwear, wedding dresses and formal garments where structure and elegance are prioritised.
7. Silk Chiffon
Silk chiffon is a lightweight, sheer silk fabric woven with fine, twisted yarns. It has a soft, fluid drape and an airy, almost weightless transparency.
Despite its delicate appearance, quality chiffon possesses surprising strength, making it perfect for creating layers that add depth without bulk. Used to create ethereal transparency and femininity, silk chiffon is often used for scarves, blouses, flowing dresses and layered garments that require movement and delicacy.
8. Sandwash Silk (Easy Silk)
Introducing a new era for silk fabric sandwash silk is silk that has undergone a specialised washing process to alter its surface texture. The unique treatment maintains all the luxury and beauty of traditional silk while offering enhanced practicality for modern life - a soft, slightly matte finish that is more wrinkle-resistant and easier to care for.
Sandwash silk can be used in relaxed tailoring that needs to remain practical and versatile for everyday wear. Our drop shoulder easy-silk top and easy-silk wide leg trousers are perfect examples.
Popular Silk Blends
1. Silk-Cotton
This thoughtful blend combines luscious silky material with cotton's practicality, creating a lightweight fabric that's significantly easier to care for than pure silk. The cotton fibres add structure and reduce the delicate nature of silk, making these blends perfect for everyday luxury pieces. The combination maintains silk's lustrous appearance while offering better wrinkle resistance and simpler maintenance requirements. We particularly love this silk for clothes like vests and cardigans, where it helps elevate your knits as you transition seasons.
2. Linen Silk
A sophisticated blend that brings silk's smooth, luxurious appearance to linen's naturally relaxed character. This combination is often used in very fine, expensive summer tailoring where the goal is refined elegance with breathable comfort. The silk adds lustre and smoothness to linen's texture while the linen provides structure and enhanced breathability. These blends create garments perfect for warm weather occasions where looking polished and feeling comfortable are equally important.
3. Silk-Cashmere
Combining two of the most precious textiles in fashion for tasteful pieces, silk's elegance with cashmere's incomparable softness and warmth. This exquisite blend creates garments that feel gentle and warming while maintaining sophisticated drape and appearance. The combination is perfect for transitional pieces that work across seasons, offering lightweight warmth and versatile styling. Our oversized silk-cashmere wrap is the perfect example, as it’s a classic shawl for breezy summer nights, or an extra thermal layer for chilly autumn days without the bulk.
How To Distinguish Real Silk
Identifying genuine silk cloth requires understanding several key characteristics that distinguish it from synthetic imitations. Here’s a comparison:
| Experience/Test | Real Silk | Synthetic Silk |
| Sheen | Soft, shifting sheen that moves with the light | Harsh, fixed shine, often overly glossy |
| Touch | Smooth, soft yet weighty, with a slight organic irregularity | Feels artificial — either too slippery or too stiff |
| Breathability | Naturally breathable — feels light and cool on skin | Often traps heat — can feel stuffy or sticky |
| Sound | When rubbed together, it makes a soft, snow-like crunch | No significant sound; lacks the subtle texture |
| Drape | Falls fluidly in elegant, natural folds | Often stiff or unnaturally smooth when it hangs |
| Finger Rub Test | Dissolves gradually in chlorine-based solutions | Remains intact in the same solution |
| Soak Test | Soft and yielding to the touch; texture is gentle and responsive | Lacks the same softness or give; feels synthetic |
| Burn Test* | Smells like burning hair; leaves crisp ash that turns to powder | Smells like burning plastic; leaves sticky, hard residue |
*Do not try at home so please take our word for it.
Why We Work With Specific Silk Weaves at Rise & Fall
We work with carefully chosen silk weaves, from fluid easy-silk satin to structured silk dupion and sheer silk organza. Each one brings a distinct balance of drape, texture and durability, allowing us to create pieces that feel luxurious yet are wearable, timeless designs.
