Cashmere Ply: Is More Always Better?

What Does Cashmere Ply Mean?

In knitting, ply refers to how many yarns are twisted together to create one yarn. Each of those starting yarns already contains many cashmere fibres.

Twisting yarns can help improve how strong the fabric is, as the practical benefit of making two-ply or four-ply yarn is to add strength. However, as the CMMI states, adding plies will not improve the quality of the cashmere itself.

Is Four-ply Cashmere Better Than Two-ply?

Not necessarily; it depends on the quality of the cashmere itself. If you are comparing the same fibre quality, then four-ply is better than two-ply if you prefer a heavier knit. When the starting yarn and knitting are comparable, the extra yarn means more material, which might explain a higher price.

A four-ply cashmere sweater will be warmer than a two-ply cashmere sweater if all else is equal. That said, a fine two-ply knit is often much more comfortable to wear than a bulky four-ply, especially when layering.

The size of the starting yarns matters more, as it tells us how thick or thin they are, so two sweaters using the same number of strands can feel different, depending on the yarn's thickness and how many strands are twisted together. Four fine yarns can weigh less than two much thicker ones.

How the garment is knitted can also affect the feel of the finished piece. A design knitted with different patterns and tensions also changes how the finished piece feels.

Ply Versus Gauge

While ply describes the number of yarn strands twisted together to make a yarn, gauge describes the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine. A higher gauge generally produce finer knits, while lower gauges suit chunkier styles.

They also describe different aspects of construction so two garments with the same ply can feel quite different. Neither number alone determines quality or warmth; fibre quality, yarn thickness and the finished knit all matter.

Why is There Different Advice About Cashmere Ply?

A common myth that needs to be busted: more ply = better cashmere. This is misleading, but retailers still use these terms in their marketing.

Better cashmere brands focus on fibre quality, construction, and traceability, while others emphasise ply and thickness. Yes, a heavier knit might be better if you prefer the extra weight, but a sweater's weight won't tell you whether the cashmere fibres themselves are actually better.

A higher ply count helps with durability, like in a cashmere gloves-and-beanie set, or when you want more weight for warmth in a cashmere blanket or throw.

Robert Old describes their cashmere garments by ply count rather than fibre quality or grade, while Diamond Knitland addresses the ply-count myth, explaining why it doesn’t contribute to garment quality.

What Should You Look for In Good Cashmere?

When we think of cashmere, we think of lightweight, ultra-soft warmth - not heavy or coarse. Cashmere garments made from low-quality fibres may be just that; ply can not fix bad cashmere.

In the end, it all comes down to cashmere quality and construction.

We recommend looking for garments made from finer, longer fibres and built with thoughtful construction. The CMMI define state that when looking for high-quality cashmere garments, fibre length and diameter matter most. They also mention that additional ply does not improve the quality of the cashmere.

Fine Fibres For Softness

Fibre diameter is measured in microns, which are thousandths of a millimetre. A lower figure means finer fibres, which generally feel softer against your skin.

For a jumper you’ll wear close to the body, this matters more than the ply count alone. More strands will not make the fibres inside them any finer.

Longer Fibres For Stronger Yarn

Longer fibres can make stronger yarn that pills less.

At Rise & Fall, we use Grade A Mongolian cashmere with fibres around 15.5 microns in diameter and 34-36 mm long. Read more about these details in our guide to judging cashmere quality.

Both measurements matter, whether you’re choosing a fine jumper, a heavier cardigan or a soft wrap.

A Well-made Knit

Soft is good, but fluffy is not always better.

An especially fluffy surface does not necessarily mean better cashmere. Finishing affects how the fabric feels and wears, so the softest first touch shouldn't be your only guide.

Some pilling is normal too. As Sandy Lee, our Technical Manager for Apparel & Home, explains: “Some pilling is completely normal, even with high-quality cashmere.” To remove pilling safely, we recommend using a cashmere comb. 

For more information, see our cashmere care guide.

Choosing The Right Cashmere For You

Think about how you’ll wear it and what you already have. A fine jumper can be useful beneath a jacket, while a heavier cardigan makes a comfortable extra layer when the temperature drops.

The finished weight and fit will often be more useful to you than the ply number. This table gives you a few things to consider when trying a piece on.

Before buying, a few details can make the comparison easier:

• Check the composition. Compare the cashmere percentages if one piece is a blend.
• Look for fibre information. Published measurements of diameter and length are more helpful than a description such as “premium cashmere”.
• Consider the yarn. The starting yarn size gives the ply count more meaning. Several yarns knitted together without first being twisted into a plied yarn are a different construction.
• Find out about wear testing. Information about pilling and shape retention after washing can help you understand how a piece has been assessed.
• Reviews. Read about what the customers are saying before buying.well-made cashmere jumper should suit the way you dress and feel comfortable to wear. The ply count can help explain its construction, but it is the fibres and the making that deserve your attention.

A well-made cashmere jumper should suit the way you dress and feel comfortable to wear. The ply count can help explain its construction, but it is the fibres and the making that deserve your attention.

Cashmere Ply FAQs

1. Is two-ply cashmere good quality?

Yes, it can be. Two-ply made from good fibres and carefully knitted can be a beautiful choice for everyday wear. The number of ply tells us about the yarn construction rather than a quality grade.

2. Is four-ply cashmere warmer?

Four-ply is heavier and warmer when it uses the same starting yarn and similar knitting to a two-ply garment. 

3. Does more ply mean less pilling?

No. Fibre length, yarn construction and finishing all affect pilling. A higher ply count doesn't guarantee a jumper will pill less.

4. Does 100% cashmere mean good quality?

It tells you the stated fibre composition. Two pieces labelled 100% cashmere can still use fibres of different fineness and length, and can be made differently.

5. Is higher-ply cashmere worth the extra cost?

It can be if you want the extra weight and the garment uses more material. The fibre quality and construction should still be clear, rather than the price being justified by ply alone.

6. What is the best cashmere ply for everyday wear?

Choose a piece that feels comfortable and works with your wardrobe. A lighter knit may suit layering or a warm environment like an office, while a heavier cardigan or jumper may be more useful in colder weather.