Our Complete Guide To Cashmere

In the realm of luxury textiles, few materials command the reverence that cashmere does. This extraordinary fibre represents more than clothing – it embodies a legacy of craftsmanship, comfort and conscious luxury that aligns perfectly with Rise & Fall's values of simplicity, integrity and longevity.

Understanding what cashmere is opens the door to appreciating why this material has captivated the fashion obsessed for centuries. Our complete guide explores the journey from  fibre to finished garment, helping you understand the value in luxury cashmere clothing that will grace your wardrobe for years to come.

What Is Cashmere?

Cashmere fibre is a precious natural material renowned for its exceptional softness and lightweight warmth. 

The extraordinary nature of cashmere yarn lies in its microscopic structure. Each fibre measures approximately 14-19 microns in diameter, around half the diameter of human hair, creating its characteristic softness that makes cashmere so coveted. This fineness, combined with the fibre's natural bunching, creates tiny air pockets that provide exceptional insulation.

Where Does Cashmere Wool Come From?

Cashmere comes from the cashmere goats found in the harsh, mountainous regions of Central and East Asia. This specific breed has adapted to the extreme temperatures found here (which can fall as low as -30°C), leading to the evolution of a soft undercoat, or cashmere wool, as we know today. 

Cashmere origin traces primarily to:

• Inner Mongolia, China: Considered to be where the world’s best grade-A cashmere comes from. The goats develop the finest undercoat, producing the finest yarns and measuring in at 15.5 microns and 34-36mm in length. While considered as the gold standard for cashmere production, these luxurious fibres make up less than 10% of the world's cashmere supply.
• Kashmire, India: The historical cashmere wool origin that gave the fibre its name.
• Nepal, Iran and Afghanistan: Additional sources known for quality cashmere clothing materials.

What is Cashmere Mostly Used For?

The versatility of cashmere extends far beyond traditional sweaters, encompassing an entire wardrobe of luxury pieces, from delicate scarves to structured coats. Cashmere wool clothing includes:

• Sweaters and cardigans.
• Wraps and scarves.
• Lightweight, layerable pieces.
• Statement coats.

At Rise & Fall we craft pieces that honour the fibres natural versatility, creating a collection that moves effortlessly from professional settings to intimate gatherings.

How is Cashmere Manufactured?

The transformation from wool to garment involves a meticulous process that determines the final quality of cashmere yarn:

1. Combine and Collect: Unlike sheep shearing, cashmere collection involves careful combing during the goats' natural molting season. This gentle process preserves fibre integrity while ensuring animal welfare.
2. Sorting and washing: Raw cashmere undergoes careful sorting by colour, length and fineness. Multiple washing stages remove natural oils and impurities without impacting fibre quality.
3. Dehairing: The most critical step separates the precious cashmere undercoat from coarser guard hairs. This process requires specialised machinery and expert oversight to preserve the finest fibres.
4. Dyeing, Carding and Teasing: Fibres are dyed using low-temperature methods, then carded to align them uniformly. Teasing creates the loft that gives cashmere its characteristic volume.
5. Spinning: The prepared fibres are spun into cashmere yarn with careful attention to tension and twist, ensuring strength without compromising softness. Using long Mongolian fibres means the yarns have fewer ties and exposed ends, resulting in exceptional quality and unparalleled softness.
6. Weaving or Knitting: Finally, the yarn is transformed into fabric through weaving or knitting techniques that give the material structure.

The Difference Between Cashmere & Other Wools?

What truly sets cashmere apart from other luxury woolen textiles is its softness and warmth-to-weight ratio. For such a fine yarn, its ability to insulate whilst still maintaining that lightweight feel is unmatched. 

For example, merino wool and lambswool still offer that same insulation, but the wool itself is denser than cashmere, sacrificing that lightweight feel. However, there are advantages and disadvantages to any natural fibre.

Pros & Cons of Cashmere

Advantages

• Versatility and Breathability: The benefits of cashmere clothing include year-round wearability, serving as a warming layer in autumn and winter, yet light enough for summer evenings or air-conditioned spaces during travel.
• Hypoallergenic Properties: High-grade cashmere is naturally hypoallergenic, making it suitable for sensitive skin that might react to other wools.
• Remarkable Durability: When properly cared for, quality cashmere garments improve with age, developing a distinctive softening patina that speaks to their enduring value.
• Temperature Regulation: Cashmere's unique fibre structure creates insulating air pockets that warm when you're cool and release heat when temperatures rise, providing natural climate control.
• Handfeel: With fibres finer than human hair, cashmere feels buttery soft against the skin. No itchiness, just all-day comfort.
• Layering: Thanks to its fine weave, even mid or heavyweight cashmere is slim enough to layer, yet warm enough to replace heavier outerwear.

Disadvantages

• Investment Consideration: Cashmere is one of the more costly fabrics on the market, however, this cost represents value through its long-lasting versatility and the meticulous processes involved in creating quality cashmere. At Rise & Fall, we view this as an investment in clothing that becomes more beautiful with time, offering exceptional price-per-wear value across decades of use.
• Delicate Handling: Handling cashmere may feel intimidating to first time buyers as this natural fibre is very susceptible to shrinking and requires delicate care like hand washing and air drying. But, we’re here to help you keep your cashmere in tip top condition. Simply follow our cashmere care guide for step-by-step instructions. 

How to Pick High-Quality Cashmere

Only 10–15% of global cashmere qualifies as Grade A, making it the true luxury tier. The majority (~85%) falls into Grade B and C. These vary in softness, durability and cost depending on origin and processing.

So how do you ensure you’re buying good quality cashmere? What should you be looking out for? Selecting exceptional cashmere requires understanding the markers of quality that distinguish superior pieces from its mass-market alternatives.

1. Geographic Origins: The finest cashmere traditionally comes from Inner Mongolia, where the materials from these regions set the global standard. Nepal, India, and Iran also produce quality cashmere, though with more variation in fibre characteristics.
2. Sustainable and Ethical Sourcing: At Rise & Fall, our commitment to ethical/sustainable cashmere is evidenced through our manufacturer's certifications in Good Cashmere Standard, Bluesign and Oeko-Tex. These certifications ensure our cashmere is sourced from traceable, cruelty-free farms that prioritise animal welfare and responsible grazing practices. “We’re also able to protect the wellbeing of the herders, ensuring they are paid fairly which is a great advantage in our offering.” (Will Coulton, Co-Founder at Rise & Fall).
3. Sustainable and Ethical Sourcing: At Rise & Fall, our commitment to ethical/sustainable cashmere is evidenced through our manufacturer's certifications in Good Cashmere Standard, Bluesign and Oeko-Tex. These certifications ensure our cashmere is sourced from traceable, cruelty-free farms that prioritise animal welfare and responsible grazing practices.
4. Construction Quality: Our cashmere garments feature mid-weight 12-gauge knitting, providing optimal balance between warmth, softness and elegant drape. This weight offers perfect layering capability without bulk. We use only long-staple fibres and avoid mixing with inferior materials or weaves.
5. Manufacturing Excellence: Quality cashmere construction involves labour-intensive techniques that ensure longevity. Our garments feature ribbed hems around necklines, cuffs and waistlines that add structure and extend garment life. We employ fully-fashioned construction, a technique that creates better-fitting garments while producing less waste, supporting our sustainability commitments.
6. Cashmere Grading: Cashmere quality is determined by fibre length, diameter, colour and purity. Many cashmere brands don't specify their grade but at Rise & Fall we proudly use only Grade-A cashmere in our men's cashmere and women's cashmere clothing lines.

Below is a simple comparison table to guide your purchasing decisions:

How To Care For Your Cashmere

Now you know what qualities and characteristics to look out for, how do you take care of your cashmere garments? It’s simple, follow these simple steps.

For more guidance on how to look after your cashmere, head over to our cashmere care guide.

Common Cashmere Blends

Pure cashmere represents the pinnacle of luxury but thoughtful blends can enhance specific characteristics, creating more well-rounded pieces. At Rise & Fall we exclusively blend premium fibres, such as silk, cotton and merino wool.

Why Do Brands Blend Cashmere?

• Cost Consideration: Manufacturers will oftentimes blend cashmere with other fabrics, both premium and non-premium, to impact affordability. Even blending cashmere with luxury textiles like merino wool will bring down the cost.
• Enhanced Durability: Mindful blends can increase a garment's lifespan, ensuring pieces maintain their beauty through years of wear.
• Texture and Weight Variations: Blends allow us to create lighter-weight pieces for transitional seasons or add subtle sheen through silk integration.
• Design Flexibility: Different fibre combinations hold dyes differently and create unique textures that expand design possibilities.

What Do the Blend Ratios Mean?

Blend ratios help give you an idea of how much cashmere is in a piece, compared to the other materials it’s mixed with.

• 90–100% Cashmere: The peak of luxury, offering maximum softness, warmth and that quintessential cashmere experience. This highest percentage delivers the full benefits of pure cashmere and is a worthwhile investment for those seeking high-end garments.
• 70–89% Cashmere: Still maintains high-quality characteristics, often providing enhanced integrity through blended premium fibres. These blends offer excellent value while preserving much of cashmere's luxurious feel.
• 30–69% Cashmere: Mid-range options that provide some cashmere benefits at more accessible price points, though with noticeably reduced softness and warmth compared to higher percentages.
• Below 30% Cashmere: These blends are more affordable, but offer minimal luxury experience and are often created primarily for cost reduction rather than performance enhancement.

At Rise & Fall, we focus on higher percentages and blends that enhance rather than diminish cashmere's natural properties.

How Versatile Is Cashmere?

Cashmere can effortlessly take you from day-to-night and can be layered for every season.  Unlike synthetic knits, cashmere adjusts to your body temperature, keeping you warm while not making you feel overheated. This is a game changer for unpredictable UK weather. 

Cashmere is also great as a layering piece. Mix different weights by pairing lightweight cashmere with chunkier knits or even outerwear, depending on the season. You can also play around with texture. Try combining cashmere with silk, denim or cotton for visual interest and contrast. Adding a pop of colour with a bright cashmere jumper or cashmere accessories can instantly elevate your look, particularly during the dark winter months. 

With so much versatility cashmere has become a key feature in our men’s and women’s apparel. For inspiration check out how we style our cashmere across the seasons.

Why Choose Rise & Fall Cashmere?

Choosing cashmere represents more than selecting luxury, it's an investment in pieces that stand the test of time, in both quality and style. This represents the epitome of who we are and what we do. We create timeless pieces that are built to last and our cashmere collections are no different.

Our commitment to sustainable cashmere clothing ensures that you support both exceptional craftsmanship and responsible practices that respect the remarkable journey from goat to garment. That’s why we only use 100% grade-A Mongolian cashmere. With the longest, finest yarns, fewer ties and exposed ends, our cashmere is exceptionally soft and long-lasting. Think of us as the investment purchase and let the everlasting appeal of cashmere become a staple in your go-to wardrobe.