Silk Material Guide

This comprehensive guide explores silk's remarkable journey from ancient origins to contemporary innovation, revealing why this extraordinary natural fibre continues to captivate Designers and discerning customers alike. Whether you're discovering silk for the first time or looking to understand its nuanced qualities, you'll find everything you need to start incorporating silk into your capsule wardrobe.

What Is Silk & How Is Silk Made?

Silk is a natural fibre derived from silk-laded cocoons, produced by silkworms. After 5-8 weeks of maturity silk filaments are pulled from these cocoons and washed. They are then spun to create the luscious silk fabrics we know today.

A single silk cocoon is extraordinarily long that can stretch between 2,400 and 3,000 metres. To produce a single silk thread, strong enough for weaving, 5 to 30 cocoons are carefully reeled together. 

To make enough silk for just one dress then, approximately 250 grams of raw silk fibre (3,000 cocoons) is needed. However, only the central layer (a third) of each cocoon can be unwound as a single filament. The rest is too short, coarse and uneven and is instead made into a thread known as ‘spun silk.’ While still used to make clothing and home furnishings, it is regarded as a low quality silk. 

Where does silk come from?

Silk originated in ancient China where its production remained a closely guarded secret for centuries. As the silk trade flourished, high demand brought this coveted material into Europe, establishing silk routes that connected civilisations and cultures. Today China, India and Japan remain the most important countries for silk manufacturing. Global production, meanwhile,  remains refreshingly modest, ensuring its continued exclusivity and value.

Silk Classifications: Finding High Grade Silk

Silk is one of the most delicate of all natural fibres used in the textile industry. It also stands as a timeless material in the fashion world and consumer demand has certainly not waned.

Similar to many natural materials, silk grading is based on fibre length, density and weight. Much like cotton and linen, long fibre length is crucial for ensuring a smooth, durable fabric. At Rise & Fall, our dedication to sustainable textiles drives us to offer an exceptional range of natural silk yarns and blends that meet the highest standards of quality.

Silk Fabric - Grade Comparisons

Silk quality is categorised into Grades A, B, and C, based on fibre length, uniformity, and surface perfection. Here’s how they compare:

Mommes by Product Type

Momme (pronounced "moh-mee") is another quality factor. It measures silk's weight and density per square metre, serving as a reliable indicator of the fabric's thickness, durability and overall value. Higher momme weights generally indicate denser, more durable silk that will maintain its appearance and structure over time.

In women's apparel, the typical momme (mm) weight depends on the garment type and desired drape or opacity, allowing Designers to select the perfect weight for each piece's intended use and aesthetic. Here is a quick breakdown.

1. Silk with 12–16 momme offers lightweight, delicate and breathable characteristics with a soft, airy drape, though it may be slightly sheer. This range creates perfect:

• Blouses that drape elegantly without bulk.
• Lingerie that feels weightless against skin.
• Summer dresses that provide cooling comfort.
• Silk camisoles and slips that layer effortlessly.

2. Silk with 8–22 momme provides heavier weight with a richer, more substantial feel that's more opaque and durable with reduced risk of snagging or tearing. This range excels for:

• Evening dresses that require structure and presence.
• Structured tops that maintain their shape throughout wear.
• High-end silk shirts that look crisp and professional.
• Tailored garments that need to hold precise lines.

For comparison, silk pillowcases often use 19–25 momme, while luxury silk bedding might reach 30 momme. However, due to density considerations and price points, clothing rarely exceeds 22 momme, as higher weights can become too heavy for comfortable draping and movement.

The Qualities of Silk

Natural materials make the best everyday essentials and it comes down to the sheer number of benefits they have. Breathable, lightweight, layerable, durable and hypoallergenic are just a few of the things we love most about wearing silk material, especially when it comes to our quintessential everyday silk dresses. 

Soft, Smooth and Lightweight

Silk's unparalleled softness comes from its incredibly fine natural fibres, creating a surface so smooth it feels like liquid against the skin. This weightless quality means silk garments move with effortless grace, never feeling heavy or cumbersome despite their elegant appearance. The natural protein structure of silk fibres become even softer and supple with wear, making each piece more precious over time.

Moveability and Durability 

Despite its delicate appearance, silk possesses a gorgeous combination of flexibility and resilience, allowing silk garments to adapt to movement without stretching or losing their structure. The natural pliancy and dimensional stability of silk fibres ensures that well-made pieces maintain a reliable style wear after wear. 

This inherent strength also lends itself particularly well to durable and long-lasting apparel. With proper care, high-quality silk can last for decades, making silk an excellent investment, as cost-per-wear decreases significantly over time with pieces that remain relevant and beautiful for years.

Glossy Surface and Elegant Shine

The distinctive lustre of silk comes from its prism-like fibre structure that reflects light at multiple angles, creating depth and richness that synthetic materials cannot replicate. This natural light reflection contributes to silk's unmistakable allure, making even simple silhouettes appear more sophisticated and elegant. The shine varies beautifully with movement, creating garments that ensure the wearer always stands out with understated elegance.

Breathable and Thermo-Regulating

Silk's ability to regulate temperature makes it ideal for year-round wear, adapting to your body's needs in any climate. The natural protein fibres create microscopic air pockets that provide insulation when it's cool while allowing heat to escape when temperatures rise. This intelligent thermal regulation means silk material keeps you comfortable whether you're in air conditioning or warm sunlight, making it the perfect choice for travel and transitional seasons.

Highly Absorbent and Moisture-Wicking

One of silk's most impressive qualities is its ability to absorb up to 30% of its own weight in moisture without feeling wet or uncomfortable. This exceptional moisture-wicking capacity keeps skin dry and comfortable throughout the day, while the alleged natural antimicrobial properties of silk help prevent odor buildup. The combination of absorption and quick drying makes silk ideal for warm climates and even layering in colder ones.

Hypoallergenic and Skin-Friendly

Silk's natural protein structure is incredibly gentle on sensitive skin, making it ideal for those with allergies or skin sensitivities. The smooth surface reduces friction against skin and hair, preventing irritation and actually helping to maintain skin's natural moisture balance. Many dermatologists recommend silk material for its non-irritating properties and ability to help skin retain its natural oils, making it as beneficial as it is beautiful.

High UV Protection

Depending on the weave, silk cloth provides natural protection against harmful UV rays, making it ideal for sunny days when you want to stay protected while looking elegant. When woven tightly, this built-in sun protection helps prevent UV damage to skin while keeping you dry and comfortable, even during extended outdoor activities. The combination of UV protection and cooling properties makes silk perfect for resort wear and summer occasions where both style and sun safety matter.

Wrinkle-Free (almost)

Unlike many other luxury fabrics, silk's natural dimensional stability means it's remarkably resistant to wrinkles and creases. This practical benefit makes silk ideal for travel and busy lifestyles, as garments maintain their crisp appearance throughout long days. When minor wrinkles do occur, they often fall out naturally as the fabric moves, and any stubborn creases can be easily steamed away, maintaining its polished look.

The Disadvantages of Silk

Silk’s disadvantages are few and far between compared to the numerous benefits, however, it’s worth noting its steeper price point compared to other natural materials and high maintenance care.

Investment Price Point

While silk fabrics command a higher price than many other textiles, this initial investment pays dividends through exceptional longevity and timeless appeal. Quality silk garments often become capsule wardrobe staples that last for decades, making the cost-per-wear reasonable over time. Higher-grade silks are also more colourfast, retaining their vibrant hues better than lower grades and demonstrate superior durability that justifies the initial investment.

Specialised Care Requirements

Silk does require more thoughtful care than some other fabrics, but this attention helps preserve its beauty and extend its lifespan significantly. The specialised care process becomes part of the ritual of owning luxury pieces and many find the process meditative and rewarding. With proper knowledge and gentle handling, caring for your silk becomes straightforward and ensures your garments maintain their beauty for years to come.

Discover Grade A Silks From Rise & Fall

Silk may not be your go to everyday material, but its hold as a luxury staple and reign over evening and occasion wear make it a must in any closet. Whether you’re elevating your workwear or attending those special moments, Rise & Fall is here to give you the perfect piece. 

While Grade A silk represents the pinnacle of silk quality, we have exclusively used it in our silk apparel.