Linen Material Guide

Known for its effortless drape, breathability, durability and distinctive texture, linen has been used for clothing and home textiles for thousands of years. Few materials capture the essence of timeless elegance quite like linen while its integrity and sustainability aligns perfectly with our commitment to creating pieces that stand the test of time. 

In this linen material guide, we explain what linen is, where it comes from, the different types and blends available, how to recognise high-quality linen and how to care for it properly at home.

So What Is Linen?

Linen is a natural fabric made from the fibres of the flax plant (Linum Usitatissimum).The distinctive crisp and slightly crinkled appearance is often described as "slubbed". This refers to the natural irregularities and slight thickening in the yarn that create linen's characteristic textured appearance. These subtle imperfections give linen textile its organic, lived-in beauty.

Where Does Linen Come From? 

High-quality linen is most commonly produced in Western Europe, where climate and soil conditions support the growth of long, strong flax fibres. France, Belgium and the Netherlands are considered the gold standard for linen production thanks to their unique combination of cool, humid climate, nutrient-rich soil and centuries-old craftsmanship passed down through generations.

Types of Linen: By Weave

When we look at the different weaves of linen cloth, we get a better understanding of what type of linen to use when. Each weave creates distinct characteristics that affect both appearance and performance.

1. Plain-Woven Linen

The first is plain-woven linen. It has a balanced, even structure that offers durability and breathability, making it suitable for both clothing and home textiles. This forms the foundation of our 100% linen products at Rise & Fall….(continue with paragraph)

Plain-woven linen forms the foundation of our 100% linen products at Rise & Fall. This classic weave creates a balanced, even texture with excellent durability and breathability. The simple over-under pattern allows the natural properties of the flax fibre to shine through, resulting in fabric that's both structured and comfortable. Plain-woven linen is versatile enough for everything from easy-to-wear linen dresses to sophisticated tailoring like our men’s linen suit jacket and trousers, making it ideal for garments that need to transition seamlessly from day to night.

2. Damask Linen

The second type is damask. This linen represents the pinnacle of weaving artistry, featuring intricate patterns hand woven directly into the fabric using a jacquard loom. This reversible weave creates subtle, elegant designs that catch light beautifully, making it perfect for formal table linens. This is a complex weaving process that results in a fabric with a sophisticated, lustrous finish that’s best elevating dining spaces.

3. Gauze Linen

Loosely-woven linen, or gauze linen, offers maximum breathability and a more relaxed, casual feel. The open weave structure allows air to circulate freely, making it excellent for warm-weather clothing, such as lightweight scarves and summer dresses. While this weave does sacrifice some durability we find it incredibly comfortable to wear.

4. Towelling Linen

Small loops are woven into linen offering superior absorbency and resistance to bacterial growth. This makes it ideal for bath towels and robes.

5. Sheeting Linen 

This is specifically woven for bedding applications, balancing smoothness with breathability. This weave creates fabric that's substantial enough to withstand regular washing while remaining soft against the skin. The careful balance in thread count ensures linen bedding is both durable and comfortable.

 How is Linen Made?

The journey from flax plant to finished linen fabric begins in the field, where flax plants are grown in carefully managed conditions. Unlike many crops, flax requires specific climate conditions. Cool, humid weather with regular rainfall but good drainage. The plants grow for approximately 100 days before harvest, developing long, strong stalks that will become the foundation of exceptional linen fibre.

Rather than cutting the plants, they're pulled from the ground by hand or with specialised machinery. This pulling process preserves the full length of the fibres, which is crucial for creating strong, smooth linen yarn. The longer the fibres, the higher the quality of the finished fabric.

After harvesting, the flax undergoes retting, a natural process where the plants are spread in fields and exposed to the natural elements. This breaks down the woody stems and loosens the fibres within. Traditional dew retting takes several weeks and relies entirely on natural conditions, while some producers use controlled water retting for more consistent results.

Once retted, the flax moves through the labour-intensive scutching and heckling processes. Scutching involves breaking the woody stems and scraping away the broken pieces, while heckling combs the fibres to remove any remaining plant matter and align them into smooth, parallel strands.

The cleaned flax fibres are then spun into yarn. Flax is stiffer and more brittle than cotton, making spinning more challenging. The yarn must be created with just the right tension to maintain strength while allowing the natural character of the fibres to shine through.

Finally, the yarn is woven into fabric using various techniques depending on the desired end product. Many high-quality linens undergo additional treatments such as garment washing or enzyme treatments to soften the naturally crisp texture and achieve the desired hand-feel.

Types of Linen by Fibre and Composition 

The thread composition of linen fabric significantly impacts the way it behaves and feels. From modern blends to trusted original compositions - there’s a variety of ways in which linen can benefit your lifestyle.

1. Organic Linen 

This is produced from flax grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers. It retains the natural strength and breathability of flax fibres while supporting lower-impact farming practices.

Our Men’s All Rounder French Linen Trouser, however, highlights the best of organic linen blended with cotton to help shape the drape and enhance the trouser’s versatile style.

2. European Flax Linen

French linen, particularly from Normandy, holds special significance. The region's maritime climate, with its consistent moisture and moderate temperatures, creates ideal conditions for growing flax with exceptionally long, strong fibres.

European linen production is regulated under strict environmental and labour standards, ensuring that every step of the process meets high ethical and quality benchmarks. Flax grown in Western Europe is traceable, low-impact and long-lasting, making it the preferred choice.

At Rise & Fall, we use European flax linen in our men's linen collection and women's linen apparel as well as our Relaxed & Refined and House of Grey bed linen ranges, ensuring our customers receive the finest quality available.

3. Modern Blends 

Modern blends represent the evolution of linen textile technology, combining flax fibres with other natural or synthetic materials to enhance specific qualities. At Rise & Fall, we only focus on thoughtful blends that elevate the linen experience, like our linen and TENCEL™ Lyocell combination in our womenswear. This blend creates fabric ideal for modern wardrobes that demand both comfort and sophistication, reducing wrinkles while maintaining the essential character of linen.

We've also introduced Ramie material to our women's linen collection; a renewable and biodegradable plant fibre derived from the nettle family. This eco-friendly addition shares similar properties to traditional linen, offering durability, breathability and superior moisture-wicking capabilities but with a slight added lustre. Ramie can be woven into fabrics with a similar feel and drape to linen, as seen in our Ramie Gauze Tunic Dress and Ramie Gauze Aegean Dress. 

Linen blend fabric can dramatically alter linen properties depending on the blend percentage. A small amount of elastane might add stretch and wrinkle resistance, while cotton blends can increase softness, as seen in our men's linen collection. See below how these combinations allow for seasonal, lifestyle and design versatility:

How To Distinguish High-Quality Linen

High-quality linen can be identified by its weight, fibre length, texture and origin.

• Weight serves as one of the most reliable indicators of linen quality. Premium linen fabric feels substantial and weighty yet remains breathable and comfortable. Lightweight linen might feel insubstantial and is more likely to be made from shorter, lower-quality fibres.
• Strength is another crucial factor. Quality linen should feel strong and resilient when handled, with minimal loose threads or weak spots. When you gently pull on the fabric, it should resist stretching and return to its original shape.
• Natural creases and imperfections are actually signs of authenticity in high-quality linen. Look for subtle irregularities in the weave and slight variations in texture, these indicate genuine flax fibre rather than synthetic alternatives. The natural slubs and slight thickness variations are hallmarks of authentic linen textile.
• Softness in quality linen develops over time, but even new pieces should have a pleasant hand-feel. Premium linen will soften significantly with each wash, becoming more comfortable. This improving quality distinguishes genuine linen from inferior alternatives that may become rough or lose their appeal over time.
• Origin matters significantly when evaluating linen quality. As mentioned, European flax, particularly from France, Belgium and the Netherlands, consistently produces superior results due to ideal growing conditions and traditional expertise.
• Long-staple fibres create better fabric quality because they result in fewer joins or weak points in the yarn.

Rise & Fall Linens

At Rise & Fall, we use European flax linen and considered blends to create pieces designed for everyday living, without unnecessary markups or compromise on quality.